The first bin can be just left there to do its own thing. You may want to give it an occasional probe to introduce air but all it will really need is to be left alone for time to run its course. You can then carry on filling the second compost bin until this is becoming full. This is where you need to decide where you go from here.
The ideal length of time for compost to form in a compost bin would be 12 months plus. When a compost bin is full, you need to leave it to work. This would give the contents of the first compost bin a really good advantage. By the time that the second compost bin is full, you should find some space in the first compost bin because the level should have dropped. You could add to the level in the first compost bin but the space will be used up relatively quickly.
The second compost bin can then be closed off while you fill the first. Another option would be to have two empty compost bins from the start. Fill one of the bins completely. When you have achieved this, remove the entire contents from the first bin and load it into the second bin. Doing this will agitate the forming-compost in the most effective way possible.
The major upheaval of digging over compost in this way will introduce air. This will accelerate the composting process considerably. Compost bins that have an open bottom are the best bins for doing this. They are designed to be tapered; wide at the base and narrow at the top. Compost bins of this type can be lifted up to reveal a cone-shaped heap of partly-made compost at the base and fresher material at the top.
You may need help when lifting compost bins. It may take two people to lift the bin up but because of the tapered design, it will only take a little movement to free the bin from the heap inside. This would be to use all the compost bins that you have and add waste to each in rotation. This would mean that all your compost bins would fill up completely at the same time but it would take a long time.
You could then start extracting some finished compost from both or each of the compost bins that you have. Why do we compost at home? Making compost means handling waste, not everyone wants to do that. So, you could quite easily ask: why do we compost at home? When we compost at home, we are taking responsibility for some of the waste that we produce.
If everyone made compost at home, it would release public resources which could be deployed elsewhere. There is a bonus when we make compost at home. The compost that we make has a genuine value in the garden. If we send it off to landfill we are losing an opportunity to make something of use from what is essentially very basic material.
Because of this, home-made compost is seldom as perfect as municipal compost, but it is still effective. Garden compost can take between six months and two years to reach maturity. Mature compost will be dark brown, with a crumbly soil-like texture and a smell resembling damp woodland. It is unlikely that all the material in the heap will be like this, but any remaining un-rotted material can be added to the next batch of composting materials.
Wet, slimy and strong-smelling compost: Too little air and too much water are often to blame. Cover the heap to protect against rain and add more brown waste, such as chopped woody material, shredded woodchip, straw or paper. Dry and fibrous with little rotting: Usually caused by too little moisture and too much brown material.
Alternatively, add fresh manure at one bucket for every 15cm 6in layer of compost, fish, blood and bone fertiliser at g 9oz per 15cm 6in layer of compost, or sulphate of ammonia fertiliser at g 5oz per 15cm 6in layer of compost.
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Harlow Carr North Yorkshire. Hyde Hall Essex. Rosemoor Devon. Set the posts as you did for the wire-frame composter. To make a channel for the gate, use six 3-inch wood screws to attach a vertical 2x6 flush with the outside edge and top of each front post.
The 2x6 will extend about 2 inches beyond the front edge of the post. Along the inside face of each front post, use six 3-inch wood screws to attach a 2x2 so that it is flush with the top of the post and spaced so it leaves a 2-inch gap between the front edge of the 2x2 and the back edge of the 2x6.
This bin is built like the slatted version described at left. The only difference is that the bins share a common wall. You can make a series of bins side by side so that when turning the heap, you dump the contents of one bin into the bin beside it. If you're looking for a top-drawer composter, consider the unit shown here.
This version includes three bins for more convenient harvesting of finished compost. It also has roof panels that keep the pile from drying too quickly, while preventing heavy rains from oversoaking the compost. The plans below offer the information you need to construct this composter. Be sure to use redwood or cedar, which are naturally weather resistant, if you want a long-lasting bin.
How to Make a Composter. June 09, Save Pin FB More. TG - Vinca major sedum veronica. Compost is the secret ingredient in most of the most productive gardens. So what do people do with extra stuff when the bins are full? I have one doing it's stuff - ready in a couple of months. One just full and ready for first turn. And one half full. The first one wil not be ready before the third one is full. I can't really have any more bins. Tags: None. I only have one, and fill it with a lawn mow, but then it reduces down pretty quick.
We have a small garden too. Grass clippings with newspaper are great for clay. Comment Post Cancel. I have 3 daleks and a huge pile of tree choppings, general garden junk etc. I had 2 daleks last year and ran out of space for grass cuttings etc. They are all empty at the moment trying to get out and mow the grass now but I shouldn't think that will last long. Happy Gardening, Shirley. And they always seem to be full!
Mark Vegetable Kingdom blog.
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