Chameleons have built a pretty solid reputation on two commonly held beliefs: They can stealthily blend into their surroundings, and they are the ideal subjects for iconic '80s anthems. But it turns out one of those supposed facts isn't quite right — in fact, everything you think you know about chameleons and their color-changing capabilities is probably backward.
Scientists long believed that chameleons change their coloring similarly to the way octopuses switch shades , but biologists and physicists somewhat recently realized that something else entirely is going on. When anything agitates or exhilarates the chameleon, things start to get interesting.
In a study published in the journal Nature Communications , researchers with the University of Geneva in Switzerland revealed that iridophores act like tiny mirrors that selectively reflect and absorb different colors. While a lot of animals have color patterns — birds and fish for example — the cells that make their vibrant displays possible typically absorb or reflect certain regions of the visible light spectrum. Chameleon cells are different — iridophores can actually absorb or reflect any and all colors of the spectrum.
There are quite a few species, so there is a lot of variance. Among all of them, they can change all different types of colors — even colors that aren't visible to the human eye! The pigments inside the iridophores are typically contained inside tiny sacs, but when a chameleon's mood changes, its nervous system activates the cells to contract or expand.
When the animal is relaxed, the cells stay close together and reflect short wavelengths, like blue. A rush of excitement pushes those cells farther apart, enabling each iridophore to reflect longer wavelengths, like red, orange and yellow. Fill their enclosure with lots of leafy branches and horizontal dowels for them to climb. Because of the risk of impaction, it is best not to have substrate in their cage. Reptile carpet can be used, but watch for their claws getting stuck.
As cold blooded lizards , veiled chameleons need external heat sources in order to thermoregulate. No additional heating is required other than the lightbulbs for this reptile. The lights should be set to a hour day and night cycle. For basking, a ceramic reflector dome with the UVA bulb can be placed six inches above the highest basking perch. Create a temperature gradient by leaving lights at the top of their enclosure.
This will naturally create a cooler area at the bottom. You can use a humidistat and set up an automatic spray system to control humidity. Alternatively you can mist down the plants with a pressurized spray bottle three times a day. A chameleon occasionally needs to clean themselves in the rain. Cage Cleaning Spot clean their cage daily and remove fecal matter, dead crickets, and dead leaves.
Healthy feces are dark brown or black and have a white section. They are round or ovular and have no smell. If it is runny, too dry, not uniform in shape, or has a smell, you should take their feces to a vet for testing. Once every two weeks wash the base of the cage with soap and water. Every two months wash any plastic decorations or plants.
Veiled chameleons are primarily solitary reptiles and only tolerate each other when breeding — Chameleons like their privacy. Because of how territorial they are this lizard will not want to be housed with any other reptiles.
In captivity they will be on their basking perch early in the morning and then move to the leaves as the day progresses. They enjoy having spaces to hide. When faced with a predator they will engage in aggressive behaviors such as extending their legs and throat region to appear larger and brightening their color.
They fight by jabbing their head out to bite or poke their enemy. Chameleons will occasionally use verbal cues like hissing as an aggressive behavior. They have great eyesight but bad senses of hearing and smell, so most of their communication is visual, including changes in size and coloration. While some lizards can be handled veiled chameleons should not be handled.
Because of their susceptibility to parasites be sure to wash your hands with soap and water before and after handling. Their price is drive by age and coloration. However, it is not just the adoption fee you will need to pay. They should have a crest proportional to their head, bright and clear eyes, a closed mouth when resting and should be able to stand steadily on four straight legs.
Males are very persistent in courting and display themselves from the side to maximize their size. A pleased female will remain dull-colored and passive , while a female rejecting her suitor will remain bright and active.
After the first steps of courtship a male will try to mount. It is not uncommon to see veileds basking even when the ambient temperature is 80 to 90 degrees F. It is critically important that the owner provide a heating lamp to create a basking spot of degrees F at one end of the enclosure. The ambient air temperature in the rest of the cage should be 80's over the course of the day with a preferred drop to the 70's at nighttime.
There is no need for heat rocks or warming pads. Enclosure - lighting: The lighting should include a basking light any bulb placed near the top to create a warmer area and ReptiSun 5.
Make sure the chameleon can not come into contact with the bulbs!!! Enclosure - humidity: The enclosure should be misted with warm to hot water several times daily. This aids in shedding and adds a little humidity. Baby chameleons and adults will usually lap the water off the foliage.
Fifty to sixty percent humidity is desirable and fresh airflow is mandatory to prevent bacterial growth. Enclosure - size: Because of their large size, a screen cage of at least 24"x24"x36" is recommended but 24"x24"x48" is more preferable.
As a guide cage dimensions should meet this criteria:. A good formula for calculating this is:. For arboreal height loving tree dwellers species:. For terrestrial ground dwellers species i. Enclosure - plants: There are many plants suitable for chameleon cages. The plant must have similar temperature and humidity requirements, and must not be considered toxic.
This is a short list of the acceptable and unacceptable plants for chameleon enclosures:. Acceptable - Weeping fig Ficus benjamina , Hibiscus rosa-sinensis , pothos or devil's ivy Epipremnum aureum , Dwarf Umbrella Schefflera arboricola.
Health problems and veterinary care: Dystocia egg binding is a relatively common problem in reptiles. Dystocia can occur in live-bearing and ovoviviparous reproducing by eggs which the female carries in her body until they hatch species. Parasites are common in wild caught specimens.
Metabolic Bone Disease is another common health problem. Symptoms are described under the "Selection" heading. Salt crystals may form on their nostrils. This is not uncommon but could indicate a need for more water.
A UVB bulb is extremely important for chameleons. It helps them properly absorb calcium, as well as prevent metabolic bone disease, which is a disease that deforms the bones of the reptile. Bulbs like the Reptisun Make sure to check how long the UVB output is for your bulb, most wear out after 6 months.
It can be helpful to use a rheostat and necessary to have a proper thermometer. Rheostats are different than thermostats, and connect to your heating device. This will help account for temperature fluctuations during the day.
A temperature gun like this is an inexpensive and accurate way to make sure the temperature in your chameleons tank is correct. You can also use a thermostat so that your bulb turns off if it ever gets too hot for your chameleon. Even though they sell them in most pet stores, they are not recommended and it is best to avoid them.
You can find many rock decorations to use that do not heat up. Veiled chameleons are actually omnivores, however the main part of their diet should be insects. Young chameleons should be fed crickets that are no larger than the size between your chameleons eyes. If you go any bigger you risk your chameleon choking on their food.
They can be fed 1 to two times a day, allowing them to eat as much as they like. Once they are full grown their appetite should decrease, and you can start feeding them every other day instead. It is important to gut load your crickets with something like this , as well as to dust them in calcium as well. This will ensure your chameleon is getting the most nutritious food they can full of all the vitamins they need to live a healthy long life.
You can also offer your chameleon various fruits and veggies occasionally as well. Younger chameleons may be more interested in the insects, but you can try offering some occasionally to get them used to it.
You can find a good list of appropriate fruits and veggies to try here , as well as a list of insects you can feed to your chameleon as a treat. As with many female reptiles, female veiled chameleons will lay eggs during breeding season. However unlike many other reptiles, female veiled chameleons will still lay eggs infertile eggs even if there is no male around for breeding. This means that if you own a female veiled chameleon you are going to need to have a lay box to help aide her when she lays her eggs.
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